Words and photography Carolyn Enting
One of the most magical things about visiting Ōamaru is the sense of stepping back in time.
Not just to the Victorian era but also millions of years. Ōamaru is home to possibly the best examples of neo-classical architecture in New Zealand and Waitaki Whitestone Geopark – an aspiring UNESCO Global Geopark – is on its doorstep.
The Waitaki district boasts a range of interesting geosites, including Elephant Rocks, Moeraki Boulders and Clay Cliffs, just to name a few.
If visiting Elephant Rocks feels strangely familiar, the reason could be that it was used as a location for film Narnia: The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe (2005). And being here really does feel like you’ve stepped through a wardrobe into another world as you wander through these towering “elephants” (stones) formed from Otekaike limestone which long ago were under the ocean. These sedimentary rocks, laid down between 23 to 25 million years ago, have been revealed over time through natural erosion to produce a boulder field of gigantic proportions.
Accessing Elephant Rocks is easy, though be careful climbing them if it’s wet as the limestone can get very slippery. They’re just a 5-minute walk from the road and the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail also runs right past here.
The Anatini fossil site is also a one-minute drive from Elephant Rocks, where you can see the fossil of an ancient whale in the limestone. Six kilometres down the road near Duntroon you can find examples of Māori rock art at Maerewhenua and Takiroa sites.
The limestone overhangs presented shelter for early travellers along a seasonal route up the Waitaki Valley and are sites of significance for Ngāi Tahu Whānui. Today, it is still a travel route, with roads running parallel to both sites.
The examples of rock art are more impressive at Takiroa where you can view images of bird and animal life, people and first impressions of European settlers. The earliest known European recordings of rock art in New Zealand were taken here by Walter Mantell, who sketched a group of drawings at the site in 1852. It was also photographed in 1896 by Augustus Hamilton, then director of Otago Museum. And thankfully so, as some of these were later cut out in the early 1900s by a visiting scholar, Dr J. L. Emore and taken to museums around New Zealand; sadly, many were destroyed in the process. Reading stuff like this really does make you wish you could turn back the clock and implore Emore to leave them in situ. Even so, the art that remains is worthy of a visit.
South of Ōamaru, the marvellous Moeraki Boulders are also part of the Geopark and undisputedly geological marvels. Like Elephant Rocks, these boulders have been exposed by the erosion of the surrounding mudstone laid down around 60 million years ago. What makes them so wonderous is their size and spherical nature. They really do look like giant dinosaur eggs and some are even cracked open like ancient eggshells.
Ōamaru town is built on a long-extinct volcano and many of its buildings are built from limestone which the locals call Ōamaru stone or whitestone (from which Whitestone Cheese takes its name – but more about cheese later!).
The majestic Victorian Precinct is a superb example of neo-classical architecture and so picture-perfect that walking the streets is like being on a film set. Most recently, it was used for a scene in Netflix romance flick The Royal Treatment (2022).
In Victorian times, it was the centre of trade for the district. Its harbourside location is still bustling with trade of a different kind – art galleries, antique stores, a bakery, a café, a nearby brewery and Steampunk HQ.
My favourite experience at Steampunk HQ was “The Portal” – a light machine that transports you to alternate realities and is described as the Steampunk HQ “space-time travel gateway”. Of course, it’s make-believe, though it is fun to imagine that it really was “preserved by time travel officers” and “was their only means of returning to other worlds”. Entering the portal – a room of mirrors – the light show accompanied by music is magic and multi-sensory.
The museum itself, an 1883 Ōamaru stone building that used to house a grain elevator, was founded in 2011 by a group of creative minds and steam punk enthusiasts. It promotes sustainability and recycling and features a collection of retro-futuristic sci-fi art and sculptures. Located at the entrance of the Victorian Precinct, it’s the perfect setting for steampunk – an alternative version of nineteenth-century England.
If you are there on a Sunday, a steam engine literally runs past the museum. Operated by Ōamaru Steam and Rail, the railway track passes through the Victorian Precinct and along the bottom of the cliffs beside the harbour. One option is to stop at Del Mar restaurant, which has views out over the Pacific Ocean, and visit the Ōamaru Blue Penguin Colony across the road, where fur seals can often be seen up close, lying on the rocks. Catch a later train back to the town centre.
Ōamaru has been described by historians “as a truly Whitestone city” in its heyday which brings us back to Whitestone Cheese. Cheese enthusiasts can do a tour of the Whitestone Cheese factory, buy cheeses from the Whitestone Cheese caravan at the Ōamaru Farmers Market (Sundays 9.30am to 1pm on Tyne St, beside the Victorian Precinct) or enjoy a Whitestone Cheese platter at adjacent Scotts Brewing Co with a pint of naturally brewed gluten-free pale ale.
Cheese rolls, a Southern speciality, are also a must-try while in Ōamaru. You can find them at the Farmers Market and most cafes. Eat them hot, smothered in a layer of butter. Enjoying the hospitality scene in Ōamaru certainly keeps you happily in the present.
Good eats
Tees Street Café
Serves magnificent breakfast/brunch/lunch, great coffee and cake. Kitchen closes 2pm. teesstcafe.com
Scotts Brewing Co
This buzzing brewery produces premium naturally brewed craft beer made with South Island hops. It has a restaurant, pizza kitchen, outdoor deck and beer garden. scottsbrewing.co.nz
Riverstone Kitchen
This award-winning restaurant on the grounds of Riverstone Castle has its own cookbook. The food is lovingly prepared by chef Bevan Smith from local and seasonal ingredients and is simply delicious. riverstonekitchen.co.nz
Del Mar Eatery & Beach Bar
Drop in for a snack or meal and drink in the view of Ōamaru Harbour and township. Options range from a hot pot of mussels and clams to ceviche, tacos, fish and chips, burgers and pizzas. delmar.nz
Restaurant 1861
Located on the ground floor of the historic Casa Nova House, Restaurant 1861 serves up tapas-style dishes with a distinct Kiwi twist. casanovahouse.co.nz
Where to stay
Ōamaru Backpackers
Located just a short stroll from the Victorian Precinct, Scotts Brewing Co and Tees St Café, with views over the harbour, you can’t beat Ōamaru Backpackers on location and price. It offers Japanese-style hostel beds for those on a budget as well as comfortable private rooms and everything you could possibly need, from towels to umbrellas. oamarubackpackers.co.nz
Ōamaru Harbour Tourist Park
If you are travelling in a campervan/caravan, you can’t beat this spot. Its prime harbourside location puts you on the edge of the Victorian Precinct which means some of the town’s main attractions are literally on your doorstep. oamaruharbour.co.nz
Nest Tree Houses
Venture into the woods and experience the wonder of staying in a tree house. Nest Tree Houses are a 40-minute drive from Ōamaru on State Highway 83. Soak in the view from a hot tub, visit the sauna and just be. nesttreehouses.com
Valley Views Glamping
An eco-retreat on a farm with five geodesic domes and cabins equipped with everything you need to feel comfortable and pampered. Both tents and cabins are beautifully furnished, breakfast is included and there’s no wi-fi, so you can truly escape. valleyviews.co.nz
Casa Nova House
Casa Nova was the earliest mansion in Ōamaru to be built, in 1861, from local limestone by its gentleman owner. Today it’s a luxury bed and breakfast. casanovahouse.co.nz
