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Words by Kelsey Waters It was a solo hiking trip along the Abel Tasman Coast Track in the middle of winter that made me fall for the South Island. The picture-perfect views and sweeping golden bays that adorn the region’s postcards feel a world away from

It's easy to while away an afternoon at Packhorse Hut on Banks Peninsula, and the walk gives spectacular views.  Ask any two trampers what their favourite backcountry hut is, and it’s unlikely they would name the same one. There are more than 950 huts dotted around

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