Retreat Yourself On Kawau Island

By Carolyn Enting

October 11, 2024

Waiheke Island tends to hog the headlines as an onshore island escape – the kind you don’t need to leave the country for.

Yet not that much further up the line – 45km north from Auckland city – Kawau Island, like Waiheke, boasts many waterfront holiday homes and properties, though life here is considerably different.

The unofficial mission statement of the 80+ residents is “Not Waiheke”. They love that it’s a bit off the radar, are proud and protective of its wild kiwi population and mostly get about by boat or walking.

What you’ll find out here are beautiful dark skies free from light pollution, perfect for stargazing. On top of that, you’ll discover stunning water views, bushwalks and beautiful coves to explore by kayak, paddle board or the Royal Mail Run Cruise, as it makes its rounds to the different private and public piers around the island doing pick-ups and drop-offs.

Mansion House Bay, Kawau Island

The most famous landmark on the island is historic Mansion House, a popular picnic spot for day trippers.

It was the home of Governor Sir George Grey, who bought the island in 1862 as a retreat to get away from the pressures of political life. He was an avid collector of animals and birds, which he brought to his mini Eden project – kookaburras, weka, peacocks, zebras, monkeys, wallabies and alpacas. The monkeys were removed when they started damaging the house and the zebras didn’t thrive, but more than 100 years later, many species like weka, wallabies and possums endure and you can still, from time to time, hear the call of a kookaburra.

There are guided tours of Mansion House and a café. There are also many walking tracks from Mansion House Bay, including one leading to the remains of a Coppermine engine house at the water’s edge, built in 1854.

One of the cabins at Parohe Island Retreat.

Accommodation on Kawau Island is in plentiful supply, with holiday baches, houses and lodges to let – though if you want to get away from it all while also being thoroughly pampered, Parohe Island Retreat is your ticket.

It’s a paradise at Moore’s Bay, nestled in 20 hectares of native bush with Scandinavian-inspired luxury accommodation tucked into the hillside, organic gardens and orchards as well as grassland for its resident alpacas (a nod to Governor Grey and its history), a beach, a jetty and a swimming pool.

Yoga platform at Parohe Island Retreat.

The closest thing to a car here is a golf cart to transport your luggage from the jetty to your accommodation.

Parohe translates to a ‘relaxed easy-going mood’ and that’s just how you feel when you arrive at this oasis.

Each thoughtfully built cabin set in the bush is spacious and offers privacy while looking out into nature – with the option of an outdoor shower experience if you should so choose. An aromatherapy shower spritz is also provided to add to the spa-like experience.

One of the cabins at Parohe Island Retreat.

Journals are provided for you to keep and record any thoughts or insights during your stay.

Parohe offers signature wellbeing retreats throughout the year, as well as the option to stay for a night or two to soak up the serenity.

It’s hard to pull yourself away from the room to go exploring. I committed to attending every yoga class on offer, while my partner opted to lie in and read a book. Both very appealing options.

Parohe’s hub, aptly named Enchantment, is a place where guests come together for shared meals around the fire. From the front, it overlooks bush and a kitchen garden, all lovingly built from repurposed materials found on the property.

Outdoor baths at Parohe Island Retreat.

At the rear, freestanding outdoor tubs overlooking a Japanese-style water feature beckon. Here you can luxuriate and find your zen. Nearby there’s a sauna and outdoor shower, and a beautiful treatment room for massages (you’d never pick it used to be an old shed!).

What I enjoyed most, though, was the shared conversations, camaraderie and connections made sitting around the table after meals in conversation. Though if solitude is what you seek, this is easy to find too.

At night it’s thrilling to hear the call of kiwi pierce the dark while you’re snuggled under the duvet. Though if you fancy doing some kiwi spotting, red light torches are available to use (kiwi can’t see red light)! Weka, which are abundant on the island, have a similar cry, though are less polite than the kiwi, which helps to tell the difference between them.

Rosella parakeets add colour to Parohe. On our arrival they peppered the expansive lawn near a quaint historic house now called Honeymoon Cottage. It is said that Governor Grey came here for trysts with his lover. Since that time the building has been added to and provides a rustic accommodation alternative to the bush cabins.

Parohe boasts one of the biggest areas of flat land on the island, though there are plenty of uphill tracks to provide a workout and water view. Plus, kayaks and paddleboards are free to use out in the bay.

And you’ll want to get active after feasting on food prepared on the island by guest chefs. Komal Swamy of Koko and Chai is a regular and its clear the kitchen is her happy place. She makes possibly the best chai latte in the universe! Barista coffee is also available, though I couldn’t get enough of the kawakawa tea. Each compostable tea bag has been filled by hand with a Forage & Bloom loose leaf blend. There’s no waste infrastructure here and guests are asked to take their own rubbish back to the mainland.

I leave with what I brought with me, and a whole bunch more in terms of nourishment and fulfilment. The camaraderie on the ferry ride back to the mainland wraps me in a warm hug.

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