The Hollyford Track in Fiordland National Park is known for its breathtaking scenery and deep cultural significance, a place where New Zealand’s natural and historical heritage intertwines. For Ian Jones, former All Black and AIA Vitality ambassador, this four-day journey became more than a physical trek through rugged wilderness – it was a profound opportunity to reconnect with his Ngāi Tahu heritage.
“My wife Janine and I arrived in Te Anau after flying into Queenstown, and then took a bus to the beginning of the Hollyford Track,” Ian says. “The first day is a 19km trek, which gets you stuck in from the get-go. The magnificence of the track was apparent from the beginning, and I was struck by the realisation that people had been walking this same path for the last 200 to 300 years.”
Ian felt the presence of his ancestors in each step, a feeling that deepened as he ventured into the heart of the land they had once walked. Guides along the Hollyford Track offered not just navigation but storytelling, sharing Māori and European histories woven into the landscape. For Ian, these shared stories were moving and provided a safe space to open up about his own journey. “Everyone is on their own journey of connection, which made me feel comfortable sharing what was going on for me and my perspective,” he says.
Throughout the trip, Ian experienced moments that resonated deeply with his Māori heritage, each discovery grounding him in a long line of whakapapa, his ancestral lineage.
Not just a hike
The track, alive with the vibrant spirit of New Zealand’s native birds and trees, adds a unique touch to the journey through the remote wilderness. Walking here isn’t just a hike; it’s an immersion into a world where the resilience and beauty of the flora and fauna reveal the enduring spirit of Aotearoa.
“The fault line, which ran down Fiordland, was immense. It was like a dinosaur’s spine and so visible once the guides had pointed it out,” Ian says. “Being from Auckland, it was a real change of scenery. I get lots of energy being around the ocean but being immersed in the mountain range was very powerful. We felt like tiny people compared to the vastness of the scenery. All parts of this country are really special, but walking the Hollyford Track was a beautifully unique New Zealand experience.”
Ian was also struck by Ngāi Tahu’s enduring respect for the land. Walking by Ngāi Tahu settlements, he felt pride in what his people had cultivated. “The flourishing environment they had fed and lived off; how harsh the conditions must have been all those years ago… the respect they had for the environment despite the challenges they would have faced. It made me really proud being on the whenua of Ngāi Tahu,” he says.
When thrown out into the wilderness, there is no choice but to feel connected to nature and the magnitude of the Hollyford environment. One memory that stood out for Ian and Janine was the presence of a pīwakawaka (fantail), her father’s favourite bird, which seemed to accompany them almost throughout the walk. The nights also became a special time where Ian and his fellow trampers stayed in lodges and had the space to connect and reflect.
This journey, however, was just one part of Ian’s larger path to reconnect with his Māori roots. The couple’s two sons, Flynn and Noah, played a significant role in inspiring this exploration. “My journey back to my Māori roots really began with my kids. They’ve been my greatest teachers,” he says. “As parents, we think it’s up to us to pass on knowledge, but we can learn so much from the younger generation.”
The family’s connection to Māori culture began through activities like waka ama and kapa haka (outrigger canoe racing and Māori song and dance), with a Māori teacher named Hone Heke Rankin introducing them to these traditions. “It didn’t just reconnect me, but also my mother and wider whānau to our roots,” he adds, emphasising how his sons’ curiosity reawakened his own.
A support network
As Ian learned more about te reo Māori and tikanga Māori, he found a newfound grounding. “In Māoridom, the concept of whānau extends far beyond immediate family. It’s powerful to know that you have a network of support through your iwi, hapū (subtribe) or marae. That’s one of the greatest lessons from this journey,” he says. Learning about his whakapapa has shown him a path of patience and long-term vision, “considering the impact on future generations”, which he had not fully grasped before.
For those considering the Hollyford Track, Ian advises preparing both physically and mentally. “While walking a longer route like the Hollyford Track takes a certain level of training and fitness, physical activity needs to be an important part of everyone’s life,” he says. “Walking is a good place to start. Nature is a guaranteed way to make you feel amazingly connected to your surroundings.”
Reflecting on his personal and cultural journey, Ian feels grateful for the path he is on and the support of his whānau. “The journey might be long, but it’s worth every step,” he says. Walking the Hollyford Track was not only a tribute to his ancestors, but a celebration of the land’s natural beauty – a reminder of the strength that comes from understanding one’s roots.
