Guatemala may be “famosa” in New Zealand for a Shortland Street oneliner – “you’re not in Guatemala now Dr Ropata”! Despite its folklore status it is not a common travel destination for many Kiwis.
Bordered by Belize, El Salvador, Honduras and Mexico, Guatemala is an easy four-hour flight from Los Angeles and is a country filled with natural wonders and great beauty. It’s a place where the Maya culture is strong and woven through the fabric of the nation both spiritually and literally.
I became a little obsessed with handwoven textiles to the point that we had to buy a suitcase to ship all our treasures home. Amongst the bounty were nine cushion covers – some made from recycled embroidered huipiles (tunics) – and others needlepointed with colourful cross stitch patterns of bluebirds and flowers, two pre-loved embroidered huipiles and one new, plus a blanket!
You may think it is all for the tourists but no. The Maya wear Guatemalan traje in everyday life and it is truly wearable art. The shops packed with floor to ceiling embroidered and handwoven garments at the market in Chichicastenango are the equivalent of our high street retailers. And each piece tells something of the wearer – identifying the region, even town that they are from, depending on the embroidery or colours. Some even have sparkles. The colours and patterns date back to times when Maya ruled the ancient world, though in one store I spotted Elsa from Disney’s Frozen embroidered onto a cushion!
Chichicastenango
A day trip from Antigua to Chichicastenango is a must for textile lovers. Its market has an everyday presence however it dramatically swells in size on Thursday’s and Sunday’s which is when you should time your visit if you want to find the best selection of woven garments or accessories – new or second-hand as well as antiques, fresh produce and frankincense.
Mayan offerings of burning frankincense and sprinkling of water are also made daily on the steps of Iglesia de Santo Tomás where you’ll also find flower sellers. The site was originally a Maya temple but was razed to build the church in 1545. Its 18 steps symbolise the 18 months of the Haab’ (Maya) calendar.
The historic Mayan Inn is the best place to stay as it is close to the market and a short walk from the town’s colourful Maya cemetery on the hill. According to a shaman I got chatting to at the market the cheerful colours of the tombs traditionally correspond to the day people die – Wednesday (green) Thursday (red or pink), Friday (brown), Saturday (white), Sunday (yellow), Monday (blue), are steeped in symbolism and can also pay homage to the favourite colour of the deceased. They are repainted each year during the Day of the Dead.
Antigua
The Spanish architecture, colourful buildings and cobblestone streets of Antigua – which has UNESCO world heritage status – will draw you in. It’s naturally picturesque too, hugged on all sides by volancos including active Volcán Fuego which casually puffs plumes of smoke every 15 to 20 minutes.
Antigua is the logical place to start and finish your journey being just one hour’s drive from Guatemala City and all roads lead from Antigua. By that I mean you will find shuttle buses to take you to all the key travel destinations – Semuc Champey, Flores and closer to home Monterrico, El Paredón, Chichicastenango and Lake Atitlán.
You can happily spend a week in Antigua exploring the streets and many rooftop restaurants with views of the “volcáns”, enjoying outstanding cuisine, wine bars and a vibrant nightlife scene.
Guatemalans also love fireworks which they let off on special occasions including birthdays so expect to hear them a lot, even if you don’t see them.
Like New York, the streets are a grid layout, and like Wellington, Antigua is very walkable. Everything is 20 minutes’ walk from any direction with notable landmarks such as Parque Central with its famous mermaid fountain and street vendors. Adjacent to the park you’ll find Museo de Arte Colonial, ChocoMuseo (where you can make chocolate), the awe-inspiring ruins of Catedral San José brought down by successive earthquakes in the 1700s, and nearby Arco de Santa Catalina is a popular photo stop for local and international visitors because it frames Volcán Agua to the south. It originally connected the Santa Catalina convent to a school, allowing the cloistered nuns to pass from one building to the other without going out on the street.
Just beyond the arch on the same street you will find the Nim Po’t Market selling authentic wares at fair prices. Here you’ll find bins of second-hand huipiles (tunics) to rummage through, as well as newly woven clothing, wood carvings, masks and art.
A few streets away Precious Hands also sells handworks at fixed and fair prices that helps sustain artisans, their families and communities.
Antigua is a great base from which to attend Spanish school, or if you are quirky like me, delight in wandering the streets on a treasure hunt of sorts to see how many different brass door knockers you can find! The variety is staggering – from lions and hands to dragons – you never know what you’ll discover!
Make sure to walk up the hill to Cerro de la Cruz – a cross that overlooks the rooftops of Antigua and Volcán Agua.
Lake Atitlán
A world all of its own, Lago de Atitlán is a huge volcanic crater lake ringed by volcanos and picturesque villages that you can travel between by boat or road. You’ll find plenty of accommodation and eateries in San Juan, San Pedro, San Marcus and Santa Cruz.
We loved wandering the winding narrow streets of San Pedro and neighbouring San Juan with its colourful umbrella street.
A highlight hike, best done in the morning with a guide, is Rostro Maya which rewards with a bird’s eye view of the lake and mountains.
Book a sunrise yoga class or cacao ceremony in San Marcos with Lava Love Cacao and learn the Maya ways while sipping a bowl of cacao and making offerings of gratitude by throwing grain into the fire.
Do a cooking class in Santa Cruz with Amigas de Santa Cruz and then enjoy the meal made served up in the restaurant with one of the best views of the lake. The social enterprise provides chef training and also has a weaving collective attached which provides fair pay to local artisans for their work.
You can swim in the lake but note the locals wash their laundry in the lake, too. You’ll spot washing stones on the shoreline in many areas.
Head to the beach
It’s easy to get to the beach from Antigua. Two popular destinations for Guatemalans and visitors alike are Monterrico and El Paredón on the Pacific Coast. El Paredón attracts surfers and there are many great places to stay on the beach with swimming pools as the black sand beaches at both El Paredón and Monterrico have strong rips.
There are opportunities to party at both places as well as be at one with nature.
Take a dawn or sunset tour of the mangroves in a pole boat and enjoy the abundant birdlife.
Turtle conservation projects also operate.
Waterfalls
Guatemala is rich with swimming holes fed by beautiful waterfalls – Rachitos de Quetzal in the cloud forest; 7 Altares in Livingston; the famous cascades of Semuc Champey; and my personal favourite, Aguas Termales y Spa near Rio Dulce where a hot waterfall flows into a cool stream. Let the hot water flow over you and massage your shoulders.
Mayan ruins
Make your way to the lake town of Flores and visit the ancient Maya kingdom of Tikal which rises from the jungle. You’ll likely to see and hear howler monkeys too. The best time to hear them is at dawn, which is also a wonderful way to first see Tikal if you get lucky with the weather. Tikal is also much more accessible than El Mirador which requires a multi-day hike through the jungle.
Birdlife
Spotting the Queztel, Guatemala’s national bird, is a bit like finding a needle in a haystack but we managed to see a couple from afar in the cloud forest at Ranchitos de Quetzal which has bird watching tours. They like to be up high so the guide takes a telescope as well as binoculars though we did get lucky when one flew into a tree beside us.
Honey feeders here attract hummingbirds! At Lanquin we also saw hummingbirds and toucans. Further north, on the boat ride from Rio Dulce to Livingston on the Caribbean Coast the trees are heaving with egrets and pelicans fly in formation. Guatemala is a bird lover’s paradise.
Caribbean Coast
Only reachable by boat, Livingston is home to the Garifuna people who trace their origins to the island of Saint Vincent and West Africa. The town is walkable and has a market, lots of great street food as well as restaurants.
A great day trip is a boat ride to Playa Blanca – a beachside day resort with a white sand beach and hammocks strung up between palm trees and safe swimming. On the way the boat stops at Los Siete Altares waterfall – 7 natural cascading pools in the jungle.
Where to stay
Convento Santa Catalina by AHS, Antigua
The location is hard to beat! It’s literally attached to the famous Archo de Santa Catalina, virtually across the road from the Nim Po’t market, surrounded by great bars and restaurants and just 200metres from Parque Central. It is also a beautiful 400-year-old building with comfortable rooms and has a great restaurant and beautiful shared garden.
Francisco’s Rest House Hotel, Antigua
Nice budget-friendly accommodation at the south side of the city, we stayed here twice! The rooms are clean and comfortable. Bathrooms shared. And best of all restaurant Por Que No is literally steps away on the corner.
Hotel El Delfin, Monterrico
Situated on the beach, it also has a pool and hammocks. The food is excellent and you can’t beat the sunset from here with a margarita in hand.
ParedÓn Surf House, El ParedÓn
Loved it so much we came here twice. A beachfront paradise with pool, hammocks, excellent food, private outdoor showers and palm trees galore.
La Iguana Perdida, Santa Cruz, Lake AtitlÁn
Private rooms and dorms situated in a beautiful garden on the lake waterfront with outdoor seating and hammocks. There’s a yoga studio too. The restaurant serves up shared dinners which is a nice way to meet fellow travellers.
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Where to eat in Antigua
Pitaya
Most places serve tortillas with breakfast, but Pitaya has real sourdough too, great coffee and amazing pancakes. It’s located in a courtyard behind a shop and has a rooftop terrace.
Café Condesa
The blackboard menu proudly states it serves the “best quiche ever” and I can concur that it does! I kept returning for the tomato quiche. Food is made from scratch using mostly organic vegetables, local produce and free-range eggs. Coffee is pure Antiguan. It has patio and garden areas to dine in, and fronts onto Parque Central.
Café Bohème
Has rooftop terrace views of Mt Fuego and does a good breakfast. Try the La Framboise drink – lemonade with raspberry.
Por Que No
Make a booking to avoid disappointment as this tiny corner restaurant fills up fast! Upstairs diners need to climb a ladder. Watch the waiter negotiate the ladder sans hands! Write your name on the wall. And more importantly the food is outstanding. The menu hasn’t changed in years because why fix what isn’t broken?
Cafe Sky
The ultimate golden hour drinking spot for sunset cocktails. Blue Sky’s rooftop terrace has the best view of Volcan Agua and Antigua and serves traditional and western food.
The Londoner
A home away from home, this friendly boutique pub has consistently great food, happy hour until 4pm and serves non-alcoholic beer Special Effects amongst a variety of alcoholic options.
Best time to go
December to January are the coolest driest months which means fewer mosquitos. This time of year, it can be very cold in the mountains, however the daytime temperature in Antigua is around 26 degrees Celsius dropping to 16 at night, and 30 degrees at the beach just a few hours away!
