We arrived at KOL just as the sun dipped low, painting the sky the same blush pink as the restaurant’s weatherboard exterior. Like many of Ponsonby Road’s character buildings, KOL lives in a restored Victorian villa — all timber bones and verandah charm — the kind of architecture that defines the neighbourhood.
But step inside and the nostalgia stops at the door. Here, the heritage shell meets modern fusion: a menu that takes the smoky traditions of the Indian tandoor and spins them through Japanese miso, Korean gochujang, and even European truffle.
The first plates that landed on our table were almost too pretty to touch — the Chaat, a crisp enclosed tart bursting with fresh flavour, quickly became my favourite starter, while the Beet Tikki was art on a plate and just as satisfying on the tongue. Then came the miso- and chilli-glazed broccoli, cooked three times and finished in the tandoor. Smoky, spicy, and charred at the edges, it carried just enough heat to make the cooling yoghurt on the side feel like salvation.
Next were the prawns, kissed with wasabi and lacquered in gochujang sauce. They tasted like a conversation between continents, all bound together by the primal smokiness of fire.
The dish that had us almost mmming inappropriately for public viewing was the truffle and goat’s cheese naan. Holy… As we pulled it apart, the filling oozed — earthy, creamy, and decadent. “The perfect combination of everything in one bite,” my partner explained. This is a chef specialty and must-order; ignore any gluten-free rule for a night — I did.
The meat dishes were also beautifully executed, though I shamelessly overate despite sharing plates.
And then, up there with the best desserts I have ever tried, came the crisp rice tart. Filled with white chocolate cream and berries, it was indulgent without being sickly, feather-light and unforgettable. We’d come back for that tart alone.
This restaurant gets five stars from me — the best value for money I’ve experienced in a long time.
And yet, this September, the flavours are only half the story. Every Thursday, KOL is offering a Pay As You Feel set menu. Guests dine across three sittings, savour a line-up of inventive dishes, and then pay whatever they feel the experience is worth. Twenty per cent of the night’s revenue is donated to charities close to the owners’ hearts: KiwiHarvest, Starship Foundation, Auckland City Mission, and Make-A-Wish NZ.
For owners Ruchi and Sapan Parikh — also behind The Spice Rack in Albany and The Red Fort in Greenhithe — the initiative is about connection. “Food connects us,” says Sapan. “It’s our way of giving back to the community, of sharing what we love with others.”
As the night darkened and the restaurant glowed with chatter and clinking glasses, it was clear: KOL is more than just a place to eat, there were large tables starting to fill with groups and smaller intimate tables which actually got us talking to our friendly table neighbours.
Bookings are essential: kolauckland.co.nz/reservations
