As I rounded the last bend and rolled onto the Opua vehicle ferry, I couldn’t help but feel a buzz of anticipation. The drive to the Bay of Islands was already a joy – sparkling blue waters teasing glimpses of the subtropical paradise ahead. But nothing quite prepared me for the magic that awaited at Paroa Bay.
Descending the drive to the Lindis Group’s off-grid cabin felt like entering another world. Flanked by rows of flourishing vines and native greenery, the cabin revealed itself, tucked into the hillside as though nature had placed it there. The privacy, the tranquillity and the birdsong – kingfishers, tūī and even a few cheeky quails – set the tone for a luxurious escape rooted in nature.
Stepping inside, I was immediately enveloped by the soothing scent of wood. Every detail in the cabin exuded comfort and care: lush bedding inviting a blissful night’s sleep, an alluring fireplace perfect for cooler evenings and a bottle of Paroa Bay wine ready to toast my escape. With mosquito mesh on the windows, I left them wide open at night to let in nature’s cool breeze and soft hum.
The outdoor bath stole the show. Tucked away privately, it became my nightly and morning ritual. At night, it was pure magic, lit by candlelight and a starry sky and accompanied by a symphony of crickets. I could have stayed there forever.
When it was time to explore, a golf cart was my trusty steed. I zipped along the vineyard paths, soaking in the breathtaking views and pausing at the estate’s private beach. It felt like a hidden gem; the water crystal clear and the solitude offering the perfect chance to take it all in – a great spot for some meditation.
For dinner, Sage restaurant delivered a feast for the eyes and the palate. Perched on a hill with panoramic views of the bay, it served up locally sourced dishes that were as creative as they were delicious. Each plate was paired with wines straight from the property’s vineyard, completing the farm-to-fork experience in the best possible way. My top picks were the Kumara Rewena Bread with Kawakawa Butter, Market Fish Crudo with Pickled Grapes, Basil Oil, Crème Fraiche and Pistachio, and Charcoal Grilled Rib Eye with Beef Fat Confit Potatoes, Fresh Salad and Bearnaise.
On my second day, I traded land for sea, embarking on a sailing adventure with Vigilant Yacht Charters. The classic 42-foot cutter-rig yacht was a masterpiece, crafted from native New Zealand timber. As we sailed through the islands, the shimmering water and vibrant landscapes were nothing short of hypnotic: kayaking, snorkelling and simply basking in the sun on a deserted island beach made for a perfect day. A fresh, homegrown lunch on board was the cherry on top.
Returning to shore, I wrapped up the day at Hone’s Garden in Russell, indulging in a wood-fired pizza and a refreshing cold beverage. The casual, laid-back vibe was the perfect counterpoint to the indulgence of Paroa Bay.
Paroa Bay is an experience that recalibrates the senses. Every element, from the off-grid cabin’s thoughtful design to the untouched beauty of the surrounding landscape, invited me to slow down and reconnect with nature.
As I began my trip home on the Sunday, I already felt the pull to return – to once again trace the contours of this land where ocean and earth seamlessly intertwine. In the meantime, I’ll hold onto the memories of those starry nights, the scent of the vines and the taste of wine sipped in solitude.
