Mineral makeup has had plenty of praise in recent years. Should we believe the hype?
Mineral makeup has had plenty of praise in recent years. Should we believe the hype?
Photographs: Tony Brownjohn. Words: Annabel McAleer. Expert advice : Kate Robertson, fomulations specialist
Makeup that’s so light you can sleep in it; so pure it actually treats conditions like acne; so kind to your skin it acts as a sunscreen; so natural it’s made from the earth itself. Who can resist mineral makeup when it comes with claims like that? Hardly anyone, it turns out, which is why just about every big makeup brand has launched a mineral line over the past few years, and why Shiseido recently paid a whopping US$1.7 billion for the US mineral makeup pioneer Bare Escentuals.
There’s no doubt that mineral powder feels a whole lot nicer to wear than traditional foundation; its clean, dry finish truly doesn’t feel like wearing makeup at all. It’s also true that many mineral foundations give a lovely, luminous look to the skin. But this is the beauty industry: should we believe the rest of the hype?
Show some love for your naked face, be brave and give your skin a break: designate one day a week a makeup-free day!
For most brands, the answer’s no. There’s no minimum percentage of minerals that must be included before companies can slap on a lucrative ‘mineral makeup’ label, so some mineral products aren’t too different from other foundations.
In its purest form, mineral makeup is made only from naturally occurring minerals like mica, titanium oxide and zinc oxide—although the minerals used in makeup are manufactured in the lab for safety’s sake, and some have come under scrutiny (see right). Sometimes the minerals are ‘micronised’ to ultra-fine, nano-sized particles, which are so tiny that some scientists are concerned they may be absorbed through the skin.
As for using your mineral foundation as a sunscreen, it’s a good extra layer of protection, but dermatologists say it’s not enough by itself. It’s best to apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen beneath your makeup. It’s also not a great idea to sleep in any makeup, despite what some brands claim.
So what’s the upside? True mineral foundations don’t contain irritants such as fragrances, artificial colours or preservatives, so they’re still a healthier option than most other foundations. Zinc oxide and titanium oxide have anti-inflammatory properties, so they’re good for those who suffer from acne or rosacea, and mineral makeup won’t clog pores. It may not be perfect, says cosmetics expert Kate Robertson, but you can’t make makeup out of thin air. If you’re looking for a more natural foundation, mineral makeup is a good way to go—just read the ingredients list and choose your brand carefully.
Ingredient watch
Titanium dioxide
Used in many sunscreens and as a pigment in makeup. Animal studies show some evidence of carcinogenicity when inhaled, but human studies on occupational exposure in large quantities do not show any increased risk. Choose liquid mineral foundation rather than powder if you are concerned.
Bismuth oxychloride
Used to add shimmer and a silky feel to mineral makeup, as a filler or binder, and to help with adhesion to the skin. It is a metal derivative rather than a mineral, created as a byproduct of lead and copper processing. It is a known irritant that has been linked to itchiness, rashes and cystic acne. Best avoided, especially if you have sensitive skin, acne or rosacea.
Talc
Used as an absorbent, anti-caking agent, as a low-cost filler or to give a silky feel. Some talc is thought to contain or behave in a similar manner to asbestos, says cosmetics expert Kate Robertson, which has led to much controversy about its safety. Limited human evidence links frequent use of talc on female genitals to an increased risk of ovarian cancer, so keep it out of your knickers! Some animal studies show health effects from inhalation; choose talc-free or liquid mineral foundation rather than powder if you are concerned.
Mica
Used in mineral makeup to reflect light, for a smooth feel and as filler. It gives a luminous look to the skin, and can have a matte or sparkly finish. Some women report sensitivity to mica.
Product Info
Jane Iredale Liquid Minerals Sheer, moisturising coverage with matte finish. Beads of foundation are suspended in gel, mixed on release. 18 shades to suit most skin tones. Talc- and bismuth-free. Ecocert-accredited. $93, www.janeiredale.co.nz Jane Iredale Disappear Excellent coverage. Ecocert-accredited.
Inika Powder Good coverage with a subtle shimmer. Multiple award-winning product that contains only four ingredients. Talc-, bismuth- and nano-free. Eight shades cater mainly for Caucasian skin tones. Australian organic certification.
$70, www.inikia.com.au for stockists
Inika Vegan Kabuki Brush Truly excellent mineral powder brush. Soft, densely packed bristles allow easy application.
$70, www.inikia.com.au for stockists
ASK A NATUROPATH
A recent cervical smear showed an abnormal result. What can I do to help my system fight those bad cells? I eat healthily, rarely drink and take a multivitamin, vitamin C and evening primrose oil once a day. —Jayne
A diagnosis of cervical dysplasia (CD, or CIN) can be scary because of the association between CD and cervical cancer, yet most low-grade smear test results revert to normal with natural treatment. However, CD should not be ignored: it is a pre-cancerous condition that indicates the cells of the cervix are changing and may eventually become cancerous if left untreated. If your test results have come back positive for CD, you could request another smear to rule out the possibility of a ‘false positive’. If your doctor recommends a biopsy or further treatment, follow their advice. Here are your best options for nutritional support:
Folic acid: Folic acid deficiency increases the risk of CD, and large dosages of supplemental folic acid—up to 5,000mcg (5mg) per day for 12 weeks—in my clinical experience can even reverse CD. Lower doses (400mcg– 1mg/day) may help prevent CD.
Indole-3-carbinol (I3C): A study in patients taking 200mg or 400mg/day for 12 weeks induced regression in over 50 percent of CD cases. Obtain 200mg/day from about 200g of raw cabbage or Brussels sprouts per day. Vitamin C: Women who consume less than 90mg of vitamin C per day have 2.25 times the risk for CD. Take 1,000–3,000mg each day until you are ‘clear’ then stay on 1,000mg/day for some time.
Zinc: Take 5–10mg daily.
Vitamin A: Take 10,000iu daily until clear.
Eric Bakker is clinical director of The Naturopaths (www.naturopath.co.nz)
