Words and images by Sophie Benson
Knowing how to replace a zip is not only an incredibly useful skill to have in order to prolong the life of the clothes you already own, it also opens up the horizons of secondhand and vintage shopping. Zips can fail and break, so having the ability to replace them will mean you can buy that unique piece safe in the knowledge you can make it wearable again in no time. This example involves replacing a zip closure within a seam, and it’s a great place to start if you’ve never replaced a zip before.
Tools and materials
- Garment with a broken zip
- New plastic or metal zip
- Unpicker
- Measuring tape or ruler (optional)
- Chalk or wipe-off fabric marker (optional)
- Pliers (optional)
- Pins
- Needle and thread or sewing machine with zipper foot
- Scissors
Step 1:
If your garment has a broken zip attached, use an unpicker to remove it. They key is only unpicking the necessary stitches which are holding the zip in place to minimise the amount of reconstruction later.
Step 2: What length?
If your zip is the correct length, skip ahead; otherwise measure the zip you’ve removed and mark the length on your new zip using chalk or a fabric marker.
If you’re using a metal zip, use pliers to remove the two top stops plus a few teeth which extend beyond your mark. Replace your top stops at the correct length then trim the excess. If you’re using a lightweight plastic zip simply stitch across the bottom of the zip at the correct length, then trim the rest away.
Pin one side of your zip into place, lining up the top stops with the top of the opening of the fabric. Close the zip as you go to ensure it’s flat against your fabric. If your garment is lined, sandwich your zip between the fabric and the lining.
Step 3: Fold
Undo your zip and repeat on the other side. Using your machine or a needle and thread, sew a straight line down towards the bottom of your zip, removing your pins as you go. Sew along the bottom of the zip and back up the other side.
If you are hand sewing, use a back stitch to make your stitch line extra strong.
Step 4: Check
Depending on the design of your garment, you may also need to sew along each side of the top of the zip to secure the zip tape, or reattach the top of your lining. Snip off any excess threads.
This is an edited extract from Sustainable Wardrobe: Practical advice and projects for eco-friendly fashion by Sophie Benson, White Lion Publishing, $45.
